S•T•I•T•C•H•E•S Embroidery Business Insights
dots dots www.stitches.com dots dots dots dots Volume 86 / December 11, 2008 dots dots
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VIDEOCAST | TRENDS & TECHNIQUES : Sweatshirt Suggestions
Thread Weight Matters
: Motivate Younger Workers
NEWS BRIEFS | ASK PHIL | EMBROIDERY TERMS
PRODUCT RELEASES & RESOURCES | CALENDAR

[ VIDEOCAST ]

Behind the Scenes. Watch the Video
Wearables and Stitches Editor Nicole Rollender takes you behind the scenes at a Stitches magazine photo shoot at ASI headquarters in Trevose, PA. You’ll meet the cast of quirky characters who make the shoots happen, plus you’ll see how much fun we have shooting the cover and cover story images each month. Click to watch the video.

What did you think of this video? Send your feedback to Managing Editor Joe Haley at jhaley@asicentral.com.

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Take The State of The Industry Survey
Stitches is currently polling professionals in the industry to see how the market did in 2008. We need your input. We’re inviting decorators to take our first annual State of the Industry survey. So, please take some time to click the appropriate link below and complete the survey. You’ll be entered into a random drawing to win up to $1,000.

Click here to take the survey.


[ TRENDS & TECHNIQUES]

Sweatshirt Suggestions
Today, sweatshirt fabrics are being used for a variety of other products, including sweatshirt blankets and tote bags. Below, you’ll find some tips from Jerilee Auclair, owner of Black Eagle Designs and Busyheadcreations.com, for working with sweatshirt material to make your designs look amazing. Try to switch up placements, adding a small logo on the back of a tote, or embroidering in corners.


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  • On sweatshirt material, increase density (which sits at 74.7 stitches per inch or 3.5 points) and increase pull compensation because sweatshirt material is thick and can really make a satin stitch look skinny.
  • Try using Burmilana thread (a Madeira product) at regular density or a slightly lesser density (but with the extra pull comp). Made in part from wool, it’s great for giving an old-fashioned or vintage look to designs. Use a larger needle – a 100/16 size makes a larger hole, but decreases the chance the thread will get caught in the eye of the needle.
  • Opting for a regular thread, use a polyester thread to avoid fading or bleeding out, which can ruin a bag when it’s washed or bleached. “Totes get set down on floors, thrown into cars and more, so they can be expected to get dirty, which is why I think they’d be bleached at some point,” Auclair says. Also, hot water (even without bleach) can make rayon thread run/fade/bleed so poly would be the way to go. 
 

This tote bag is from Boxercraft (asi/41325). Try giving totes to sports teams for carrying gear to events, or use it as a school bag, decorated with a student’s name or school logo. If you’re working with a brightly colored bags, try using contrasting hues to make designs really pop.

  • Use a regular needle when doing work with regular thread (meaning, use a 75/11 or 80/12 needle with 40-weight thread). The larger the needle number, the larger the shaft/eye, and thus the larger the hole, but sweatshirt material will close around the hole quickly anyway. 
  • Use a tearaway stabilizer. “I usually prescribe a cutaway type of backing, but in a tote, you don’t want some big mass of white or black ‘stuff’ on the inside of the bag and ‘things’ can get caught on it, so tearaway is the way to go on this type of project,” Auclair says.

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In the March/April 2009 issue of Stitches, we want to feature embroiderers who've overcome incredible adversity while opening their businesses, or keeping them open. Your challenges could include: natural disasters, illness or economic woes. We'd like to know how you beat the odds, and who helped you – family, friends, employees or other members of your community. We'll pick the most inspirational shop owners to be profiled in a special feature story.

If you'd like to be considered, please send an e-mail with your story to Editor Nicole Rollender at nrollender@asicentral.com; be sure to include your full name, shop name, city and state location, daytime phone number and e-mail address.

Hurry! Please send your story in by December 16.


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Thread Weight Matters
There are many threads in the marketplace labeled as an inaccurate 40-weight thread. The weight measurement for thread is actually based on length, not heaviness. A thread is labeled at 40 because 40 kilometers of the thread will weigh 1 kilogram. And the weight is determined by how many kilometers of the thread it takes to amount to 1 kilogram in weight. The lower the weight number, the heavier the thread. A “true” 40-weight thread will save both time and money. Here’s how:
  • Better Fill: A true 40 weight thread, such as the Iris Polyester Thread available from EnMart, requires fewer stitches because it fills better. It’s thicker, giving the user better coverage on the fabric. And of course, fewer stitches means less thread and less time needed to stitch the design.
  • Fewer Breaks: Breaks are the bane of every machine embroiderer’s existence. But a true 40-weight thread is hard, making it more likely to run longer stretches of time without breaks. If machine tensions are adjusted properly, production could increase. Increased production would result in more designs and more revenue.
  • Less Splitting: Arcs and curves are a common feature in many designs today. A standard thread will often split when stitching a unique design or logo. A true 40-weight thread can handle the increased stress an arc or curve can place, resulting in less splitting.

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STITCHES SOCIAL SITE: 800 Members and Growing
We're excited to invite you to join an online networking community that we've created just for Stitches readers – the Stitches Magazine Social Site! This site, located at www.stitchesmagsocialsite.com, is similar to MySpace or Facebook – you can create your own page and post photographs and videos of your work. We've also set up forums where you can talk with other decorators about your challenges and successes; some forums include: Single-Head Machine Group, Digitizing Forum, Ad Specialties Forum and Embroidery Tips & Tricks. To join, click here


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Motivate Younger Workers
The next generation of workers has gained a reputation of not being able to contribute at the same level as the older generation does now. For sure, their immaturity and attitudes will surface on many occasions. But before you dismiss these young workers, take the following two elements into account and transform your Gen Y team into hard workers:

1. Technology: Teens and young adults today have known a world with cell phones, computers, the Internet, iPods and so on. These items have played a role in shaping every aspect of their lives. Take advantage of this by allowing younger workers to help with technology-related projects. Get their input when you’re updating the company Web site or using social networking sites.

Also, younger people are hard-wired to process the maximum amount of facts, figures and news faster through cell phone, e-mails, instant messaging and texting. Use this by texting or e-mailing schedules and company information to younger workers and bring them up to speed in a way they’re more familiar with.

2. Society and Culture: We’re long away from the family sitting around the dinner table, recapping the day and discussing tomorrow. Society has evolved to become more consumer-driven – dominated by brand names, professional sports and distant celebrities as role models. They’ve helped to shape what teens expect the workplace to be, making them less ready. Preparation for entry-level, hourly and seasonal jobs rarely occurs. Young people may not see the cause and effect between a part-time job and the million-dollar lifestyle they aspire to. Tackle this challenge by setting honest expectations upfront and mentor younger workers on a regular basis to keep them on track of future goals.

Self-expression and personal identity has always been a high priority for teens. Carving out one’s individuality is a natural response to the bombardment of messages they receive on how to look and act. Don’t pass judgment simply based on appearance. In most cases, it’s not a reflection of their performance.

Understanding and appreciating the unique environment teens and young adults have been raised in is often the first step to make real progress with your younger staff. They’re as capable as any generation before them, and maybe even more so. These same life components have made them adaptable, committed, innovative, knowledgeable, time efficient, tolerant and able to multi-task. Consider how you can use their skills and watch your productivity and profits soar as you prepare for your company’s future.


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[ NEWS BRIEFS ]

50th Anniversary CLIO Awards Festival, one of the world’s most recognized international advertising and design competitions honoring creative excellence and innovation in the industry, announced that the online entry system is now accepting submissions at www.clioawards.com.

 
     
 

Dalco Athletic recently released its new catalog of official uniforms and accessories for football, baseball, softball and basketball. Accessories include shirts, shorts, belts, socks, whistles, penalty flags and other related items.

     

U.S. Screen & Inkjet Technology offers a free inkjet-to-garment glitter video. The video talks about what type of glitter to use and several techniques for applying it to shirts during printing. Vice President Mike Fresener walks users through the process step by step.

 
     
 

World Emblem International Inc. (asi/98264) scheduled the launch of its new Web site and online catalog for January 1, 2009. Users will be able to print out invoices, create reports on order history, view price breaks, track shipments, set up new users and even supply garments for embellishment.


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[ ASK PHIL ]

Dear Phil,
I’m looking for a wholesale supplier of white blend polo shirts with snaps. I’ve looked through my catalogs and haven’t had any luck. Could you please help me out?
Thank you,
Cindy

Dear Cindy,
I think I’ve found some products that are just what you need! Look at product (13Z0075) from Cincinnati Line/ Wear Magic (asi/45180); (800) 543-4945; www.wearmagic.com. This supplier offers snap placket polos in 100% polyester wicking fabric in seven colors, including white. A women’s style shirt is product (13Z0076). Also look at product (53413) from Patagonia (asi/76442); (800) 470-7458; www.patagonia.com/corporatesales. This supplier offers a 70% organic cotton polo with a hidden snap-front placket.

Hi Phil,
One of my customers had seen an over-the-shoulder nylon bag that held a raincoat and a blanket. Do you have any idea where I could find this?
Terrie

Dear Terrie,
I most certainly do have some ideas! In fact, I think I found a product that’s exactly what you were looking for! Look at product (T-839) from Topaz Trading Inc. (asi/91492); (905) 850-8555; www.topaztrading.com. This supplier offers a three-in-one blanket and rain poncho with an outer nylon shell and fleece blanket. The product folds into a carry bag with a shoulder strap and carry handle; it comes in blue, green and black.

Dear Phil
I'm looking for size 4XL T-shirts in two colors: Carolina blue and Tennessee orange. The orange can also be an athletic orange or a mandarin orange. I've searched everywhere and couldn’t find them anywhere. Thanks.
Debora

Dear Debora,
Start with product (979-C) from Wear Magic (asi/45180); (800) 543-4945; www.wearmagic.com. This supplier has sizes 2XL-4XL and may have tall sizes for an additional cost. This supplier has your tees in Carolina blue and orange. Also look at product (20203PNT) from Neato Athletic Inc. (asi/73512); (334) 233-6835; www.neatoathleticinc.com. This supplier offers a tall size T-shirt in 100% preshrunk cotton with a ribbed collar in a variety of colors including light blue and orange. I also found a variety of basic crew-neck tees in light blue and orange in tall sizes from Big Top T’s Inc. (asi/40507); (800) 367-2600; www.bigtoptees.com. Also look at D&S Specialties Inc. (asi/48030); (800) 494-5247; www.dands.biz. This supplier offers an essential tall T-shirt with an incredible range of colors. Good luck.


Got a question for Phil? If you can’t find what you’re looking for in the Embroiderers Sourcing Guide, write to: Stitches, Attn: Phil Stitch, 4800 Street Road, Trevose, PA 19053. Or fax your question to: (215) 953-3107. For the quickest response, e-mail askphil@asicentral.com. For RN inquiries, visit www.stitches.com for the RN Database link.
Although I try my best, I can’t always answer every request, so please continue your search on your own. Remember, if you call the companies that I mention, tell them you heard about them here!


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[ EMBROIDERY TERMS ]

Birdnesting: Collection of thread between goods and needle plate, resembling a bird’s nest. Formation of a bird’s nest prevents free movement of goods and may be caused by inadequate tensioning of the top thread, top thread not following thread path correctly or flagging goods.

Free-Standing Lace: Digitized so that the threads are interwoven. The embroidery of lace requires a soluble backing or topping of the embroiderer’s choice for the substrate. The lace design is embroidered on the soluble product, which is then washed away, leaving just the thread in place. Many of the lace designs require additional work, shaping them into projects such as baskets, ornaments or doilies.

Reverse Appliqué: A process in which the fabric is placed on the underside of the garment, and the garment is cut along the tack-down stitch so that the material shows through. Not nearly as easy as regular appliqué, the process, however, shouldn’t be discounted. The dimension that the technique provides is quite different from regular appliqué, and when your customer wants a unique look, this might be something to consider.


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[ PRODUCT RELEASES & RESOURCES ]

Dalco Athletic offers new PSA Permanent Twill, which has a really thin edge for less heaviness and more flexibility. Available in letters, numbers, multicolor designs and the most popular athletic and school colors.

Dalco Athletic offers attractive, professional-looking baseball helmet decals in single letter, number or custom styles. Choose from eight popular stock type faces for letters and numbers.

 

Pantograms offers clear Plexiglas machines cover for two DTG digital direct-to-garment printers. This unique machine housing is completely clear allowing customers to see the inner working of the machine as it prints shirts.

 

Transfer Express offers vertical express names, a fast way to apply screen printed names on team uniforms, employee identification and school uniforms. Names can be applied in different blends, sizes, typefaces and a variety of popular colors.

Transfer Express offers Easy Print Screen Printed Numbers in the color bubblegum pink in Champ and All Star style. Champ numbers feature the traditional block style and are available in different sizes. All Star numbers are an outline block style.


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[ CALENDAR ]

Jan. 3-5, Orlando
The ASI Show Orlando
(800) 546-3300; www.asishow.com.

Jan. 12-16, Las Vegas
PPAI Expo. Las Vegas.
(972) 258-3075; www.theppaiexpo.org

Jan. 16, Tempe, AZ
US Screen’s T-Jet Printing Workshop
(480) 929-0640, www.screenprinters.net

Jan. 16-17, Knoxville, TN
Floriani Commercial Products Two-Day Educational Workshop
(423) 413-7514; www.rnkdistributing.com

Jan. 19-30, Boston; New Jersey; Philadelphia; Baltimore; N. Detroit; S. Detroit; Cleveland; Columbus, OH; Cincinnati
The ASI Advantages Roadshow         
(800) 546-3300; www.asishow.com

Jan. 23-25, Long Beach, CA
ISS Show Long Beach 2009
(800) 933-8735; www.issshows.com

Jan. 30-Feb 1, Allentown, PA
Vastex’s Screen Print Training Program
(610) 434-6004; www.vastex.com


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