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*STITCHES: Embroidery Business Insights*	Volume 152 / October 27, 2011
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BUSINESS VIEW: Customer Feedback

When it comes to the importance of getting feedback from customers, Chris Morrissey is resolute. "If you're not asking your customers to grade you on how you're doing, you're putting your business at risk," says Morrissey, president of Proforma Big Dog Branding (asi/300094). "You won't know if they're happy with you or if the next Joe or Jane who comes along and is five cents cheaper is going to get their business."

To improve retention, decorators and apparel distributors should implement procedures to find out what they're doing right for customers and what they could do better. Brand Fuel (asi/145025), for example, issues semiannual surveys that ask clients to rate the company on things like customer service and creativity. In addition to broad surveys issued through the online survey enabler SurveyMonkey, BrandAlliance (asi/268940) conducts client-specific surveys, tailoring questions to a particular customer or even a department within a company. "All clients are different, and we need to serve each differently to best meet their needs," says President Nick Thompson.

For one of The Icebox's (asi/229395) large clients – an automobile manufacturer – the distributor set up a survey that enables plant employees to provide feedback on the quality of uniforms and service they receive from Icebox. Employees fill out the survey online at an internal website when ordering new company apparel/uniforms. "Our customers appreciate that we care to ask and involve them," says CEO Jordy Gamson.

As The Icebox example indicates, decorators and distributors are using the Internet, including social media, as a channel through which to solicit customer input. BrandAlliance provides a space for feedback on its website and the program sites of clients. On its Facebook page, Brand Fuel asks open-ended questions about how well it is serving clients and what it can do better. "You can use social media as a non-paid focus group," says Katherine Rothman, president of KMR Communications, a New York City public relations firm.

Back at Big Dog, Morrissey's employees track customer orders and notify them by e-mail when an order arrives. The e-mail invites customers to inspect the order and to inform the distributor of whether they're satisfied. Additionally, WorkflowOne (asi/333647) calls customers and asks how service is going and if it can be improved. Big Dog puts a spin on the customer call by first sending clients small gifts like Starbucks gift cards. Morrissey later calls to ensure the freebies were received and asks for feedback on the customer's experience with his company. "I'll say, 'What can I do to make your job easier?' " Morrissey says.

Of course, some of the best input you'll get comes through in-person chats. BrandAlliance has regularly scheduled meetings and conducts client focus groups to determine how it can better meet customer needs. The Icebox holds semiannual customer appreciation events where food, drinks and music are featured. "It's less about selling," Gamson says, "and more about getting feedback, building relationships and understanding how we can be a greater resource for them." WorkflowOne meets quarterly or semiannually with clients whose business exceeds $250,000 to discuss how it can improve service. "We see what we're doing right and what the issues are, and then we jump into a continuous improvement application," says Jeff Grippando, VP of WorkflowOne's branded merchandise division.

As Grippando indicates, it's in constructive criticism that decorators and distributors may have the most to gain. By telling you where you've gone off course, a customer gives you the chance to enhance service, keep their business and, potentially, augment your service to other customers. You don't have to let complimentary input go by the wayside, though. With a customer's permission, you can use positive feedback in testimonials and display them anywhere from e-mail signatures and your website to advertisements and proposals to prospects. You can also take positive practices a client singled out and see if you could apply those measures more widely in your services. "By asking clients what they need and then delivering, we're increasing retention," Thompson says.

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TRENDS TO WATCH: Bohemian Style

Bohemian blouses with embroidered detail breezed into retail over the spring and summer. The trend continues into fall, with fashionable labels like Lucky Brand making eclectically-accented garments a central part of their seasonal lines.

So just what makes a look boho? Think easy-going, effortless style that has a bit of a vintage vibe. Peasant-inspired, flowing fabrics and ornate decorations add to the artistic look. Expert apparel decorator Drew Coufal, president of Sew & Sew Embroidery, defines the style as retro and free-spirited and recommends embellishment that shares these qualities. "Go with unconventional motif designs and bean-stitches," he says. "For inspiration, look to online fashion websites and celebrities. Bohemian apparel is more than just a hippie look; it goes back to ethnic roots, so this influences some of the decorative and colorful elements as well."

Your first challenge in recreating a look similar to the Lucky Brand shirt is sourcing a base garment. "In the ad specialty market, it's a little difficult to find a lot of bohemian/peasant-style cut garments," Coufal says. "Most vendors only carry options that serve as a corporate-style substitute, not necessarily a true bohemian cut. If the client demands a true boho look, you might have to turn to retail. However, if your client is more flexible, choose a less-fitted ladies' top from your promotional apparel supplier. Anything with a scoop neck or ruffled trim would be a good starting base. Since the boho look is free-flowing in nature, source more casual apparel that is lightweight and comfortable."

The trend also relies heavily on earth tones. However, you can choose any color story your client requires and still pull off the style. "Even a solid black top can be called a bohemian shirt if the cut is in line with the hippie style that is boho," Coufal says, adding that patterned fabrics can work well too. In reproducing the look of the Lucky Brand shirt, Coufal chose solid colors of the Emily Burnout tee (8660) from Bella (asi/39590).

For decoration, he focused on the motif-based pattern around the neckline that appears in the Lucky Brand original. "Our version incorporates the business name Pickled Paws along with a paw-print motif to tie the entire look together as it wraps around the neckline," he explains. "We also added a few rhinestone highlights for a one-of-a-kind piece."

Not every client will be a good match for a boho-inspired promotional apparel program. Coufal suggests targeting clients who are forward-thinking in their marketing with liberal policies regarding the reproduction of their logos. "A small-business owner will be much more receptive to this style," he says. Or, seek clients approaching younger audiences. Teens and college-age markets welcome looks that are individualized and a bit retro.

When you find the right client for the concept, consider opportunities to upsell the program. "This is a complete fashion style for women, not just a decorating process with embroidery or screen print," Coufal says. "Accessories are part of the look, so recommend additional items to complete the boho style." Scarves, tote bags, belts and vests all work as boho-appropriate accents.

Finally, Coufal says decorators should keep the following in mind when working with heavily patterned or flowing boho motifs in imprinted apparel:

Tonal thread or print colors are an excellent choice for this style; making the tonal colors a few shades lighter or darker will give the logo more contrast and visibility.
As the design and motif patterns you use become more complex, you can utilize more places to add in the company name, logo or other taglines.
To create an almost subliminal or hidden pattern of marketing and branding phrases for your client, follow the flowing lines of the motifs and material with the logo you design.

New Course Available on ASI Education's Online Learning Center
Work toward your BASI (Bachelor of Advertising Specialty Information) or MASI (Master of Advertising Specialty Information) today by taking self-paced, on-demand courses at ASI Education's Online Learning Center – where you can choose from more than 300 classes. In our newest advanced marketing course for decorators, "Savvy Self-Promotion," you'll learn proven tips and strategies that go beyond the basics from industry expert Rosalie Marcus to increase prospects' and clients' awareness of your business. Click here to take the class now.

SALES QUICK HIT: Use ROI with Clients

When talking with prospective clients, there are few pitches that resonate like those offering a good return on investment (ROI). With economic times tight, people want to know that money spent will be money well-spent, and showing them that their spending will return exponentially larger returns is a great way to convince them to buy your product. "It has to be part of the conversation because these days it's what matters, and it really should have been the conversation at all times," says Robert Fiveash, owner of BrandFuel (asi/145025). "So it is something that we use on a daily basis, because it's a critical piece of convincing the client that it's worth parting with their hard-earned marketing dollars."

In some ways, apparel decorators are uniquely well-positioned to use the concept of ROI in their pitches, because recent data shows their product fares well compared to competitors. An ASI study showed promotional apparel costs about half a cent per impression on a viewer. In contrast, newspaper ads cost about 3 cents per impression, and radio ads run about 6 cents per impression. "And when we can throw out good statistics like that," Fiveash says, "it helps make a case for our particular product and our particular solution, as opposed to the other options."

Lisa Leitch of Ontario-based Teneo Results makes a similar case in a variety of ways. Her business focuses on sales and marketing strategy and coaching. Simply by hiring her to help them on business strategy, clients will see their own returns. "Generally, people generate $25,000 to $50,000 in incremental value per $2,000 invested," she says. It's a technique that often convinces people of the value of her business, and it translates well to the guidance she's giving others on how to run their businesses. Generally, she offers strategies on how to avoid talking directly about price, so that potential clients aren't scared by the prospect of spending money. "When you're able to show ROI and value, you're able to move the conversation away from price," she says.

For example, take a nonprofit that wants to buy T-shirts for an event. The average decorator could give a quote on 1,000 T-shirts with a one-color imprint, or they can go further. "I encourage them to ask all sorts of questions about the event," says Leitch. Once a salesperson finds out the client's goals, that salesperson is better informed to find a proper solution. If that nonprofit wanted to raise $25,000 in a walkathon, for example, perhaps it would give T-shirts to everyone who signed up. But then, maybe a way to put those T-shirts to better use is to put sponsors' names on the T-shirts, thereby making it more attractive to sponsors, Leitch says. That might make the shirts cost more than the original one-imprint, 1,000-shirt option, but the increased sponsorship revenue could make the ROI high enough to not only offset the higher costs, but also boost profits.

Then, perhaps the nonprofit could create a pledge incentive, saying that event participants who raise $100 in pledges will receive a hat in addition to a T-shirt. If they raise $200, maybe they get a hoodie, Leitch says. Yes, it requires an investment by the nonprofit, but if the result is increased revenue through fundraising because people are raising more, the ROI makes it financially worth it. "When a salesperson can really shift from sales pitches to solutions, that's what people are looking for," Leitch says.

ASK PHIL
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On The Trail For Western Shirts

Q: Phil, I am in need of Western shirts for adults and children for my East Texas embroidery shop. I have requests from the Cowboy Church and trail ride groups. Can you help? – Charmaine

A: Howdy Charmaine,
For a Texas theme, Rockpoint Apparel (asi/63751); (713) 699-9896; www.rockpoint-apparel.com might be your best bet. This supplier lives and breathes Texas and offers many styles that could fit your needs. In addition, rope in Roper Apparel & Footwear (asi/83580); (800) 825-6555; www.eroper.com; and Apparel Star Inc (asi/36539); (866) 204-4042; www.apparelstarimports.com; for plenty of men’s, ladies’ and kids’ styles of Western shirts. Yee haw!

Selling Tip: It’s a mistake to think Western shirts’ appeal is limited to a region or a particular demographic. While certainly popular with trail ride groups and ranch tourism businesses, these classics of Americana are in vogue and also could work for businesses trying to project a super-hip image.

NEWS BRIEFS & PRODUCT RELEASES

American Apparel (asi/35297) announced its wholesale net sales increased 10% in the third quarter over the previous year. On the retail end, comparable store sales rose 3% for the quarter, which ended Sept. 30.		Anvil Knitwear (asi/36350) has donated T-shirts from its Eco Collection for Vivienne Westwood's GreenUp Campaign. All proceeds from these decorated Tree-Shirts will go to tree replanting programs.

Charles River Apparel (asi/44620) supported Breast Cancer Awareness Month (October) by launching a promotion with Boston-area sports radio station 98.5, the Sports Hub. During broadcasts on Oct. 14, show hosts wore pink apparel from Charles River Apparel. No stranger to breast cancer awareness efforts, Charles River in 2008 started "Be Pink Be Proud," a program through which it donates a percentage of proceeds from sales of pink apparel to benefit people battling cancer.		Dalco Athletic has released new designs as part of the Fabric Dye Sub appliqué collection. One of the designs, called Breakout, includes a distressed crest with a custom team name, sport and choice of sport ball.

Graphic Solutions Group (asi/212953) announced a Roland printer Maintenance Lab on Friday, December 9, from 9 a.m. to noon at the company’s Dallas location. Trained Roland instructors will teach attendees about cleaning, diagnosing problems and replacing consumable parts. To register, go to http://tinyurl.com/3tseyyl or contact Lauren Mason at Lauren.Mason@gogsg.com. The company also organized two events to benefit the Pancreatic Cancer Action Network during the Fort Worth Imprinted Sportswear Show in September.		Graphics One, OKI Data and Neenah Paper have joined together to release the GO UNO LED Transfer Printer and Neenah Transfer Paper made specifically for the UNO. According to Graphics One, it is the first-ever professional LED system for transfer.

Tri-Mountain (asi/92125) has added the Serena to its all-women's Lilac Bloom collection. The Serena, LB751, is a stylish blouse made of polyester and spandex.		Independent Trading Co. now offers a men’s full-zip sweatshirt jacket. The EXP 40SHZ is lined with 5.5 oz. of insulating Sherpa fleece that is bonded to an 8.5-oz premium fleece made of 80% polyester and 20% cotton.

L.A. T Sportswear (asi/65948) announced it has improved its website by adding a Distributor Locator feature, which provides inventory and contact information for each distributor that carries the product for which the customer is searching.		Under an exclusive licensing agreement, Paramount Apparel International (PAI) Inc. (asi/75945) will produce and sell Crocs footwear bearing collegiate and Major League Baseball logos. PAI will decorate Crocs shoes in its Missouri facility and sell to retailers across multiple channels of distribution.

Prime Line (asi/79530) has introduced the new 520 collection from BUILT (asi/42422), which features protective cases for laptops and Apple products that include custom-molded ribs for shock absorbency.		SanMar (asi/84863) has announced the opening of a new warehouse in Robbinsville, NJ, that is twice as large as the previous facility in Cranbury, NJ.

Sassy Scrubs announced its new Lab Coat Specialist Program, in which select seamstress staff members undergo specialized training to learn how to master the garment production process and thus reduce production time.		Sawgrass Technologies has launched a new blog that aims to teach decorators how to succeed with sublimation printing: www.howtosublimate.com.
Tajima’s X Extension Unit Set enables stitchers to use a single-head machine to embroider on curtains, bedspreads, banners and oversized apparel. This extension set enlarges the working embroidery space of the NEO TEJTII-C by combining an extended table with a border frame.		TSC Apparel (asi/90518) has named Pete Tuff director of purchasing, inventory and supply chain management.
Heritage Sportswear (asi/60582) announced that four customizable catalogs are now ready to be pre-ordered and will be mailed out in December. For more information, visit www.heritagesportswear.com.		Vantage Apparel (asi/93390) has hired Brett Garran as national sales manager.

EMBROIDERY TERMS

Bicomponent Fiber: This is a manufactured fiber made of continuous filaments and two related components, each with different degrees of shrinkage. The result is a crimping of the filament, which makes the fiber stretchable.

Dobby Weave: A decorative weave characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Dobbies may be of any weight or compactness, with yarns ranging from very fine to coarse and fluffy. Standard dobby fabrics are usually flat and relatively fine or sheer. However, some heavyweight dobby fabrics are available for home furnishings and for heavy apparel.

Findings: Any extra items attached to a garment during the manufacturing process. This can include trims, buttons, hooks, snaps or embellishments.

EVENTS CALENDAR

Nov. 4-5, Cincinnati
Apparel Decorating Extravaganza
(877) 793-3278; www.embroideryextravaganza.com

Nov. 13-16, Ocean City, MD
Ocean City Resort Gift Expo
(678) 285-3976; www.oceancitygiftshow.com

Nov. 18-19, Richmond, VA
The Embroidery & Direct to Garment Extravaganza
(877) 793-3278; www.embroideryextravaganza.com

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