STITCHES: Embroidery Business Insights
Volume 125 / August 26, 2010
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VIDEOS

Stitches Stitches Cheat Sheet: Using Crystals and Rhinestones
What do you need to know about adding crystals and rhinestones to your designs? In our newest video series, "Stitches Cheat Sheet," where we answer your decoration and wearables questions, Nicole Rollender, Stitches editor and director of ASI Education, gives you some insider tips.
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ASI Education Update
ASI Education offers you lots of business-building resources. In this video, Nicole Rollender, director of ASI Education, and Dana Reaume, manager of professional development, show you just some of the ways you can keep on top of the latest strategies, tools and technology to grow your businesses.
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BUSINESS VIEW: Secrets to Efficient Time Management
An economy mired in recession forces business owners to do more with fewer resources. To do that, they need to determine how best to manage their resources – and most importantly, their time.

When businesses ask Jan Yager, a Connecticut-based consultant, for time-management help, he lays out a series of simple, straightforward strategies that include delegating tasks (not relationships) and grouping similar tasks together. "If you have a skill that's unique and your strength, that's what you're doing," says Yager, author of several books, including Creative Time Management for the New Millennium.

Translation: Play to your strengths and delegate your weaknesses or the tasks that don't require you to personally perform them. In addition, on the subject of relationships, Yager says they typically can't be given to someone else to maintain in the same way that you built them, because trust is a person-to-person enterprise. "You want to be the one who's creating and managing those relationships," he says. Tasks, on the other hand, can be done in different ways by different people; if they're qualified, they'll still get the job done. If someone proves good at a task, give them similar ones. They may prove good at those, too.

Mark Ellwood says setting goals clearly is important. His Toronto-based firm, Pace Productivity, has advised Fortune 1000 companies in numerous countries, and his book, A Complete Waste of Time, includes all sorts of humorous anecdotes geared toward helping people avoid wasting time. That starts with clarity in addressing goals. "Managers tend to not be as clear as they would like in quantifying their goals," Ellwood says.

Ellwood uses the word "smart" as the catch point, with each letter of the word representing a key aspect of the goals:
  • "S" is for specific, selective and substantial. Pick one good, big goal that will move your business forward.
  • "M" is for measurable. An objective outsider should be able to measure whether you and your staff achieved your goal.
  • "A" is for appropriate. The goal must be appropriate to you and your staff and must clearly benefit you.
  • "R" is for realistic. The goal must be attainable with your current resources and skill sets.
  • "T" is for timely. Create a reasonable timeline to achieve your goals, and hit your deadlines. "If you can start out with a clear goal to go toward, that will determine what you do," Ellwood says. "Planning makes a difference."
So too does eliminating minor administrative tasks and time wasted on e-mail. Ellwood is a fan of administrative assistants, who can ease the burden on business owners and other management-level individuals. He's not so much a fan of e-mail, which can sap tons of time. In his eyes, there's not enough return on the time investment, which is in part why his second book is titled Cut the Glut of E-Mail. Bottom line: The boss (or you, as the business owner) doesn't need to be included on every e-mail. "Bosses will inevitably tell you they're overwhelmed by e-mails, but they don't want to cut that out because they're afraid to," Ellwood says.

Finally, take a vacation. Rest matters, because it improves the creativity that drives innovation in business. Don't chastise your people for taking a break. Make it happen, so that the hours they put in for you have a higher quality of productivity. "Time management has really become a crisis issue in America, especially because people are less willing to take vacations because of concern they'll be replaced," Yager says. "Vacations are important, even if it's a "staycation.' Children grow up fast. Vacations are the cement of the relationship. It's a chance to get to know each other. You come back replenished."

 

Get Some Downtime

Here are three easy ways for business owners to get some quick downtime:

Go out for lunch
. There’s a reason business lunches are a part of corporate culture, and it’s not – or it certainly wasn’t originally – corporate excess.

Take a walk during the day
. Get outside, clear your head, get away from the computer and get away from people.

Stagger your work schedule.
You don’t have to work the standard 9-to-5 shift. Give yourself an hour or two alone at work either before everyone comes in or after they leave.

 



New Course Available on ASI Education's Online Learning Center
Did you know you can take self-paced, on-demand courses at ASI Education's Online Learning Center? This is the newest and most convenient way for decorators, distributors and suppliers to get educated. In our newest course, "Unique Decoration Techniques: Chenille, Heat Transfers and Crystals," you'll learn the basics of chenille, heat transfers, crystals and rhinestones, so that you can make an informed decision about whether you'd like to add these unique techniques to your services.
Click here to take the course.

MARKETS TO WATCH: Teamwear
Looking for a product line that leads to annual reorders and additional add-on sales? Youth sports and teamwear apparel is the market to target. "Youth sports is a lucrative opportunity, especially if you're already involved," says Patrick Doyle, owner of Proforma Synergy (asi/490543).

Doyle is a hockey parent who has put in more than 200 hours at the rink, and now he's started providing uniforms and other products to the teams in his area. Margaret Crow, director of marketing for S&S Activewear (asi/84358), agrees with Doyle. "There's so much opportunity in the teamwear market," she says. "After you've identified the opportunities and serviced the team, there are consistent reorders."

Getting in the door definitely seems to be the biggest challenge associated with selling teamwear. "It's a wonderful business with sustainable margins," says Mark Mertens, president and CEO of A/4 Moshay (asi/30121). "It's relationship-driven. Customers are hard to get, but they stick with the suppliers that add value to their transactions."

So, how can a distributor establish contacts and win new clients in the youth sports market? The first step is to "research the schools in your area to find out about their booster clubs and current team uniform needs," advises Crow. Knowledge and connections definitely play a major part in winning new youth sports clients.

"It's challenging to sell sports apparel if you don't understand the culture," Doyle says. "If you walk into a club's or coach's office with the wrong products, you don't stand a chance of winning the client. You have to do your due diligence to learn about the products that are out there, view the online offerings of large uniform distributors, visit the schools and programs you're targeting, attend their games. You need to become part of their culture." Indeed, before you can even make product suggestions, there's a lot of information to gather from these sources – including the needs of the team, plus the products, price points and performance characteristics that players and coaches are looking for.

Though Doyle cites supplier websites and representatives as good sources for details, he puts one information source above all the rest. "Go talk to a hockey mom," he says, "or a football mom, or any sports parent, really. Go talk to them and ask where the pains are. They'll tell you."

Being a part of the team culture means having access to the parents and players themselves, which might possibly be the most important source of information required to get your foot in the door. "Sitting in the hockey rink for so many hours, I talked to a lot of moms who complained about the cold seats," Doyle says. The team jackets offered to the parents and boosters were warm, but they cut off at the waist, leaving their bottom halves exposed to the cold, metal bleachers. "I sourced a jacket that had a longer fit," says Doyle, "and I offered them a jacket that they could sit on the benches with and still be warm and comfortable."

Demonstrating an inside knowledge of the culture and needs of any team, like Doyle has done, is a surefire way to win the business, especially if their current vendor isn't taking the time to listen.

While finding out the needs and issues of parents and players, it's also vital to get the viewpoint of the coaches and athletic directors. "Coaches, athletic directors and league commissioners are busy and inexperienced with uniforms," Mertens says. "They require lots of additional handling."

This is especially true when you consider the number of highly personalized uniforms and products someone like a commissioner is responsible for, as compared to a traditional corporate buyer. "The vendor that is both prepared and willing to spend the extra time to help with fitting and the ordering process will get the initial order and be invited back next season," Mertens says. Doyle agrees: "I like being able to walk in with a full solution. It makes everyone's job much easier."

Walking in with that full solution means you understand the challenges and needs of the market. "One of the biggest challenges in selling is that leagues, teams and schools often require many customizations in color, fabric and style," says Shaukat Shaik, president of Force 2000 Athletic Apparel (asi/55056). Having distinct team colors represented accurately throughout their teams is important to coaches, but they may not know how to articulate exactly what their color needs are. Working with a vendor that is able to customize is important. Another challenge is the need for quick turnaround on most orders. "When an order is placed with us, we ship it that day and the distributor has it within just a few days to get the decoration done," says Chad Trollinger, marketing director for Augusta Sportswear (asi/37461). Service and availability of uniforms are crucial when it comes to making the coach's job easier.

Another great tactic for finding new clients and building relationships is by reaching out to the booster club before asking for the uniform business. "Approach the booster club with a fundraising idea for the team to get your foot in the door," says Crow. "You can start by offering printed T-shirts that the club and the students can sell to raise money. You're helping them right away, and providing the benefits of dealing with you as a supplier."

Once you've worked with them on one successful project, you can share your uniform samples and show them what you have to offer. This idea also works in reverse. If you currently have clients in youth sports and teamwear, consider what money you might be leaving on the table with fundraisers and non-uniform products. "In many cases, add-on sales are where the profits are to be found," says Mertens. "Accessories, coaches' gear, travel uniforms and hard goods can turn an order that is marginal into a winner."

It's a strategy that Doyle has employed with his youth sports clients. "If you sell them workout gear, drinkware, even spirit-related items," he says, "you can make a little more money on each sale. If you keep increasing your sales by just a few percent by doing that, think of the dollars you're adding to the bottom line without doing the extra footwork to find new clients."

Finally, succeeding in this market is all about being thorough and patient. "Schools and leagues will stick with who they are currently buying from rather than go through the motions of looking for a new supplier," says Crow. "Sometimes there is red tape to cut through in order to become an approved vendor. You have to be persistent, patient and available. Know that you may approach a potential client for a year before you get the first order." But, once you start building that relationship, it stands to be a loyal and profitable one.

Thread Trends
Embroidery on apparel is sometimes only as good as the thread types you decide to use. Kristine Shreve, director of marketing for EnMart, weighs in on today's most popular types of thread.

1. Polyester. These days, polyester is probably the most popular thread choice for decorators, Shreve says. It's stronger, flatter and more wash-resistant than most other alternatives. Typically, it was known for having less shine than rayon, making it a less-attractive option for embroiders, but that's changed with technological improvements by companies like Hilos Iris, which provides thread for EnMart. "For a lot of years, rayon was the thread of choice, but now that they've improved the shine in polyester, it's moved to that," Shreve says.

2. Rayon. Rayon is the second most-popular of the big two threads, yet still number one in the hearts of many decorators. It's a more delicate thread than polyester and not quite as colorfast, but this natural thread's shine typically outshined its primary alternative as a decorative option. That time may or may not be past, but regardless, it's a popular option.

3. Metallic. Metallic thread has a unique appearance, with its metallic shine and nature. The catch is that it's not easy to use. "Many people call it the "thread of death' because it's very hard to work with," Shreve says. "It's hard to sew. It's a finicky thread. It breaks more. It snarls. It causes production stops." That may not sound like a ringing endorsement, but the fact is that no other thread looks like it. That means it makes a logo or design pop, though it's often used in small doses. "Metallic is an awesome accent thread," Shreve says.

4. Variegated. This is a type of polyester thread that includes multiple colors. It's a popular change-up option to add a little more color and flair to embroidery work.

5. Fire-resistant. This thread is exactly what it sounds like: fire-resistant. You might wonder how often you'll have a need for it, but consider the demand for embroidered patches and other designs on the uniforms of firefighters, race-car drivers, pilots, electricians and other professionals in hazardous situations. "There really is more of a market for it than you think," Shreve says.


We're Tweeting
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Tip of the Day
Did you know that you can get a new Tip of the Day every day on Stitches.com? Here's just one of the business-building tips you'll find online:

"Streetwear used to be a fad, but it never went away. It's so strong that designers such as Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein have gone into this business, and it's here to stay. It's what's selling, and the brands are doing well. It's a big sector of the market now."
    Morey Mayeri, president of Royal Apparel (asi/83731)

SALES QUICK HIT: All About Price, or Not?

By Tim Holliday
Sooner or later, you have to discuss pricing with your customer. But at what point in the sales process do you discuss it? How do you price your embroidery? Do you break out your embroidery pricing, or do you include it in with the price of the goods? What do you do when your customer questions your price? Here are some tips that I've learned.

1. At what point in the sales process do you discuss pricing? I'm a big fan of finding out what my customer's price range is upfront, and then giving him an option that fits within that price range; then, a "better" option that might cost more. For instance, I recently worked with a customer who came in wanting to do polo shirts with his company information on them. It was a relatively small order, and the logo was very complex, and would have required extensive digitizing. Once I asked the customer what kind of price range he was looking at, I gave him options on not only the shirts, but also the embroidery, to fit his budget. He ended up picking a nicer-quality shirt, but saved money by using a stock font for the name of his business, instead of having his complex logo digitized and sewn, which would have cost considerably more money.

2. How do you price your embroidery? Different embroiderers have different opinions on this, but I believe that you have to be able to price your embroidery in a way that your customers can understand. Sure, you can explain the digitizing process, the hooping process, the sewing process and the finishing process, but if you have a pricing structure that you can't quickly give a price to a customer, all of that explanation doesn't mean anything. What the customer cares about is how much it's going to cost, and if that fits in their budget. You should be able to look at a project and quote a price. The last thing your customer wants to hear is that you charge by some formula or whatever and you'll have to get back to them.

I've set prices to sew flat goods with lettering of any stock font within a 15 cm. hoop. I have slightly more expensive set pricing to sew flat goods with any design within a 15 cm. hoop. I have different set prices to sew hat lettering with a stock font. I have slightly more expensive set pricing to sew any design on a hat. I have set pricing for specialty fabrics that require more work (like towels), and of course, my set pricing is tiered to give some incentive breaks for ordering higher quantities. I don't have to guess at what to answer a customer when we talk about price, and because of that, the customer trusts that I know what I'm doing, and do a lot of it.

3. Do you break out your embroidery pricing, or do you include it in the price of the goods? I actually do both, depending on the situation. I try to quote most of my jobs with the embroidery included, as again, it's just much easier for my customers to understand. Who wants to hear a price, plus another price, plus another price? It's much easier to just hear one price. That said, some things you do, you just have to break out the pricing on. For instance, we embroider a lot of baby blankets and gift items. The customer buys an item from our shelf, and then we tell them how much it costs to embroider it. Of course, we quote a set price for this, so it's still very straightforward and easy to understand for the customer.

4. What do you do when your customer questions your price? Ideally, this never happens! Seriously, if you have worked within your customer's budget, given him options and explained how the embroidery process works, you shouldn't get a lot of questions about pricing. I usually don't. If I do, it is usually from someone who's pricing all over town (or the Internet), and says that they can get it cheaper. My response to that customer is that I'm not the cheapest and never will be, but I provide the best service. I show that sample sew-outs and recommendation letters from other satisfied clients. At that point, it's up to the customer to make a decision on what he wants and what he's willing to pay for. And, more times than not, he chooses to go with me. However, if the customer chooses to walk over price, he's probably not a client I want anyway.

Credit: TIM HOLLIDAY, and his wife, Cynthia, own Children's World Uniform Supply in Sarasota, FL. Holliday is an industry veteran, with experience in all aspects of embroidery. Contact: tim@childrensworlduniform.com.


Stitches Now Accepting Nominations
Stitches is looking for nominations for its upcoming exclusive ranking of the most influential people in the decorating industry. What makes someone a candidate? They're the people everyone in the industry knows — and wants to emulate. The ones who challenge the status quo and are a force for driving growth: the innovators who develop new and exciting decorating and digitizing techniques; the thinkers who bring new equipment, software and apparel products to market; the mentors who continue to develop raw talent; and the stellar businesspeople who drive profits and revenues to their companies. They're the most powerful people in the decorated apparel industry, and we're asking for your help in identifying and recognizing them.

E-mail nrollender@asicentral.com with your nominee's name, company and three solid reasons this person should be considered for inclusion on the list. Also, include your name, company and contact information. We'd like to hear from you by September 3.

NEWS BRIEFS & PRODUCT RELEASES

Dalco Athletic offers a new fabric dye sublimation appliqué catalog.

The FabricLink Network has added a sweater knit and yarn resource to its website, located in the Fabric University area of FabricLink.com: w.fabriclink.com/University/knit/home.cfm.

Hirsch Internationalhas formed a strategic alliance with Madeira USA as its vendor of choice for embroidery thread and supplies. Hirsch is now distributing the full line of Madeira embroidery products, which include thread, backings, needles, bobbins, and accessories.

River’s End Trading Co.
(asi/82588) has announced the addition of PING Apparel (asi/67865) to its brands for distribution to the promotional products marketplace.

Sawgrass Technologies
has launched a new website designed to offer visitors improved features and enhancements. For more information, go to www.sawgrassink.com.

SWF East is hosting a two-day education and workshop conference devoted to apparel decorating, called the Embroidery and Direct to Garment Extravaganza 2010. The event will be held on October 22-23 at the Marriott Hotel in Lincolnshire, IL.

Workhorse has introduced the Primus Flash Cure, a product designed to cure larger images evenly and increase production time.



WEBINARS

Did you know that ASI Education has more than 50 archived webinars that you can access 24/7? Click here to view our complete selection.

Here are just two of our on-demand selections:

Everything You Need to Know About Stabilizers: To learn about how stabilizers are made, which ones work best with what fabrics and what specialty backings are on the market now, click here to get started, with tips from stabilizer guru Fred Lebow, owner of Lebow Consulting.

Not Just a T-shirt: Everything You Need to Know About This Staple Wearable: Want to know even more about the ubiquitous T-shirt, including the hottest styles and decoration trends, terminology and fabric info you need to know, and the hot markets that are buying tees? Click here to learn some smart strategies that you can implement in your business today.


ASK PHIL

Hi Phil,
I’m looking for dog collars to embroider (webbing-style collars). I can’t find a supplier! Can you help? Thanks for any info and your time! Lorraine

A. I found a great supplier for your pet accessory needs. The WOV-IN Group (asi/92980); (888) 558-1709; www.wov-in.com makes webbed dog collars in several different sizes with imprinting options. Hope this helps!

Selling Tip: The pet market has been heating up over the last few years, and is continuing to be a big moneymaker for decorators. There are lots of industry suppliers that offer fun pet apparel, from T-shirts to polos to outerwear. And, don’t forget those pet owners who love to sport their pet’s pictures on T-shirts, sweatshirts and bags.


Got a question for Phil? If you can't find what you're looking for in the Embroiderers Sourcing Guide, write to: Stitches, Attn: Phil Stitch, 4800 Street Road, Trevose, PA 19053. Or fax your question to: (215) 953-3107. For the quickest response, e-mail askphil@asicentral.com. For RN inquiries, visit www.stitches.com for the RN Database link. Although I try my best, I can't always answer every request, so please continue your search on your own. Remember, if you call the companies that I mention, tell them you heard about them here!

EMBROIDERY TERMS


What's That Weave?
Knitted fabrics will typically have more stretch than woven fabrics – think of the difference between a polo and a dress shirt, for example. With that said, here are five weaves to review:

Plain weave (like poplin or chambray) is the simplest version of a woven, with a basic alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. It is an "under and over" construction.

Basket weave is a variation on the plain weave using two or more warp and filling yarns, woven side by side, to create a ridged effect that resembles a basket.

Pile weave
interlaces yarns in a way to leave looped or knotted ends that can then be clipped to create a dense, soft fabric, such as velvet.

Sateen weave
is soft and smooth, formed from a "four over, one under" thread construction. It has a lustrous finish.

Twill weave
forms diagonal lines in the face of the fabric. It's valued for strength and durability, making twill a good choice for uniform pants. Denim and flannel are popular twills.

 

EVENTS CALENDAR

AUGUST 2010
August 25-26, Orange County, FL
The PPAF Expo
(888) 827-7723; www.ppaf.com

August 30-31, Boston and Long Island, NY
Advantages Roadshow
(800) 546-3300; www.asishow.com

SEPTEMBER 2010
Sept. 1, Phoenix

AzPPA Distributor/Client Expo
(480) 889-1392; www.azppa.org

Sept. 8-11, Philadelphia, Baltimore
Advantages Roadshow
(800) 546-3300; www.asishow.com
  Sept. 9-11, Atlanta
ISS Show
(800) 241-9034; www.issshows.com

Sept. 13-14, Las Vegas
ASI Holiday Preview
(800) 546-3300; www.asishow.com

Sep. 20-24, Van Nuys, Ontario, Newport Beach, San Diego, Phoenix
Advantages Roadshow
(800) 546-3300; www.asishow.com

Sep. 30-Oct. 2, Ft. Worth, TX
ISS Show
(800) 241-9034; www.issshows.com

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